Frankfurt Sued (Sachsenhausen)- a Local Wander Guide

Frankfurt is one of the larger cities in Germany. It is a travel hub and an international bank city. But it is also a bunch of small villages. And those small villages are ideal for walking. A lot of guides will tell you to go to Bornheim, or the city center. But I find Sachsenhausen most charming. It has everything. It is right by the river, but also near the forest. There is Alt Sachsenhausen with its charming old houses, where most tourists go. But there are other attractions: the museums along the river Main, lots of shopping, coffee shops, and restaurants. I might be slightly biased, I grew up in Sachsenhausen. My school, friends, and job were for the most part all within a 3 mile radius. Let me take you on a tour.

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Where to eat.

Sachsenhausen has great pizza places, and nowadays Thai restaurants (of all things) on every corner. But really, do yourself a favor and eat at the local Apfelweinkneipe. There is nothing like it. The waiter will barely acknowledge you and direct you to squeeze in with the local grandmas, because these places are ALWAYS packed. And loud. So no one will hear your baby screaming, I promise. They offer Schnitzel and such, but you need to order the Rippchen (smoked pork chops) and Sauerkraut, and “Handkäs mit Musik”. And don’t ask for forks with the latter or they will know you are a tourist right away. And of course you drink apple wine, undiluted that is. If you have the audacity to order a Gespritzte (apple wine with Seltzer water), or a “Süssen” (apple wine with lemonade) the waiter will gruffly bring you an apple wine glass with an extra bottle of lemonade all the while glaring at you. And you get to figure out how to combine the two. 🙂 But really, the waiters are really nice, in a Frankfurt kind of way.

Below is a local’s favorite: Zum Gemalten Haus (To the Painted House).

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Other local favorites are Wagner and Zur Buchscheer.

“Brunchen” is a thing right now. A lot of my friends and family wanted to meet for breakfast or brunch. These were their favorite places.

Das Lesecafe 

This place has been around forever. Started by former teachers from my high school (I may or may have not skipped school once or twice to come here). It is also a bookstore.

I like how tucked away it is. Like many places in Sachsenhausen, you kind of have to know where they are….

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The coffee is great, and there are lots of breakfast and lunch options. Some with Spanish influences. Oh, and yummy desserts.

Lokalbahnhof 

This is my friend’s favorite. It is a build-your-own-breakfast kind of place. Very rustic. Good coffee.

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Depot 1899

I hate to use this phrase but “back in my day” it was a train depot. I like what they did to the place. My sister took me here. It seems to be a local favorite for families. It was packed. It has a huge self-serve buffet. Nice surprise, they had American breakfast options, which means they had bacon!!

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Where to shop.

If you like unique designer stores go to Brückenstrasse.

Goyagoya

I discovered this women’s designer store online. I was not disappointed. I wrote more about it here.

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Lieblingsstuecke

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Where you can find curated women’s clothing from Scandinavian designers.

Other stores: Ich war ein Dirndl: Clothing designed by Jutta Heeg.  Designe, Kleine featuring unique homewares by local makers.

Schweizerstrasse is my personal favorite street to shop, because it has everything. Book stores, flower shops, Butlers, drug stores, boutiques,and even an Italian shoe store. I really should have bought a pair of Italian shoes. Kicking myself….

I personally like German flower shops. Not to buy them but just to look how they pair flowers so elegantly and artistically. I was there just before Christmas.

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Butlers

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The Museums

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Das Museum für Angewandte Kunst (The Museum for Applied Art) used to be my favorite simply because it was a great place to hang out in their park and have photo shoots.

There are more museums all conveniently located right by the river: The Museum for German Architecture, the Film Museum, a couple of art museums (Museum Giersch and Staedel), and others.

You see, it is worth a visit.

Let me know if you have been there and I forgot to mention something.

-Sofija

Most pictures taken by me, except for the one of the museum  found via Erlebnis Raum Frankfurt.   And the picture of the design store Lieblingsstuecke. Found via Miriam Beltz.

I used a Canon 5d Mark ll with a 50mm f/1.2 lens. (Thank you, Emily!)

Frankfurt Sued (Sachsenhausen)- a Local Wander Guide

Goyagoya, a Women’s Designer Store in Frankfurt

On my recent trip to Frankfurt I had  a few new stores on my list to explore. Frankfurt is growing its design scene and exiting stuff is happening. One of the stores on my list was Goyagoya, a women’s clothing design store. I’m happy to tell you, it did not disappoint. Swiss designer Elena Zenora Hock informs her designs from her upbringing in Italy: timeless, elegant, yet whimsical and fun.

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I tried the dresses below on to the left. Oh my goodness, the colors were so flattering, and the dress as comfortable as a T-shirt, yet so elegant and tailored. This might have been my first time trying designer clothes for adults (if you have been reading this blog you’ll know I mostly write about children’s designers), and I’m hooked. The quality is just that much better. The dresses pictured were in the $200 range, not exactly in my budget. But there was a huge sale section under $100. My friend ended up getting the cutest skirt, and she wasn’t even shopping that day._mg_6304karsten-und-katharina-2img_6067karsten-und-katharina_mg_6307karsten-und-katharina

My friend bought the grey and white striped skirt pictured above (to the left),  which looked so elegant on her.  I was more drawn to the polk a dot skirts. The staff was so patient and helpful. I really felt at home.

If you are in Frankfurt, do cross the bridge to Sachsenhausen. Brueckenstrasse is right near the bridge Eisener Steg and has several interesting designer stores. You can spend all day there.

Have a lovely day,

Sofija

All pictures taken by me with a Canon 5d Mark ll, with a 50mm f/1.2 lens.  

 

Goyagoya, a Women’s Designer Store in Frankfurt

Schloss Kronberg: A Wedding in a Real Castle

Friends,

Have you ever crossed something off your bucket list that you didn’t even dream of putting it on the list, because you didn’t know it was a possibility? Celebrating a wedding in a real castle for example? Well, this dream came through for me, I’m still pinching myself. And it couldn’t have been with a better person (other than my husband). My friend since high school got married and celebrated in Schloss Kronberg (Kronberg castle) in Germany. If you ever find yourself near Frankfurt, do visit. Or even better, stay overnight. Or best: get married!! The staff is attentive and friendly. And we even got a tour. Let me just say Schloss Kronberg is a “newer” castle for Germany. Most castles around here are from 1400 and older. This one is from 1889. And it is quite quirky, lots of layers of different styles as you might be able to tell from the outside. But the inside is elegant, yet warm.

Let me give you a tour.

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Upon arriving we went into a reception room toasting to the couple and eating appetizers, while the bride and groom got their pictures taken. I wasn’t the main photographer. I mostly tried to get pictures of relatives while the main photographer was busy with the couple. But one time I snug behind him and took the picture with the tree. My friend got married at the end of November, so everything was decked out in Christmas colors. katharina-und-karsten-am-weihnachtsbaumschloss-kronberg-inside

After appetizers we were lead to the dining room for a four course meal. _MG_6453Karsten und Katharina.jpg

The bride and the groom. Lovely!_mg_6467karsten-und-katharinaschloss-kronberg-dining-room_MG_6476Karsten und Katharina.jpg

Have you ever had cappuccino herb and mushroom soup? Sooo good! Scratch that off the bucket list…Schloss Kronberg food.jpg_mg_6456karsten-und-katharina

After hours of eating we got a tour. It was dark by then, thus challenging to get a decent picture.

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What a great day. I’d love to come back sometime in the summer, they have a lovely garden and terrace.

-Sofija

All pictures taken by me, except for the one that has me in it. My friend’s brother in law took that one. (Thank you Martin for taking a picture I like). I used a Canon 5d Mark ll, with a 50mm f/1.2 lens. 

 

Schloss Kronberg: A Wedding in a Real Castle

Volosko, Croatia

This time last year I was in Croatia, and right about now I am really itching to go back. If the weather is as nice as it was for us, it is the perfect time to be there. No crowds, everything is still a little sleepy, however the locals are busy going about their days, which to me adds to the whole experience.

I imagine most of us have special places from our childhood that we are drawn back  to. Volosko is one of those places for me. It is a tiny fishing community right next to the resort town Opatija, where we used to go to the beach when I was a child. Small, narrow passages, a little harbor with colorful boats, art galleries, restaurants by the water, and in the last 10 years it has also become a foodie destination.

This is my favorite approach from the top, descending down into the village with these great views of the Adriatic Sea.

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I love this beach for the views but the water is not the cleanest, since it is nestled between the port city Rijeka and the harbor above. I found cleaner beaches with clear water in Cres and Mošćenička Draga. Those are all pebble beaches, so bring water shoes.

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Every pathway has a glimpse of the water. I love these narrow walkways, it feels so intimate. There will be laundry drying, cats sleeping, little flower posts everywhere. IMG_2868IMG_2844.jpg

There are great places like Plavi Podrum right by the water (above picture: the restaurant with the blue awning), but I wanted to try a new to me place. Konoba Tramerka was a great farm to table find through my favorite travel website Frank About Croatia. Tucked away in a maze of little passages it was not easy to find. But ask the locals for direction, they will point you to it. I loved the old brick building and the cozy atmosphere inside. My favorite was the appetizer punjeni njoki s pršut (Gnocchi filled with ham – local ham that is, as in they know the pig farmer personally). As I was drooling over their olive oil, my waiter immediately called his supplier and arranged a couple bottles for me. I brought two bottles of Mate home and wished I had ten more. Later I found out Donald Sutherland had dined there and raved about the Risotto. On my list for next time. konoba tramerka, voloskoIMG_3078volosko, croatiaIMG_2863volosko, green shuttersIMG_0651

How cute is this local mural, depicting Volosko?

My mom is heading there as we speak, I’m so jealous. Have you been to this area, anything I missed?

Have a wonderful day,

Sofija

 

Volosko, Croatia

Venice

I have inundated you with pictures of Croatia from my recent trip to Europe, but I haven’t told you that we spend one day in Italy. When you stay in northern Croatia, the border to Italy is about one hour away. So, in other words, you get in your car and in one hour you could be sipping expresso on the Italian Coast. I know, what a hardship!
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venice

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venice, realto bridge

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st marco plaza, venice

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venice, grand canal

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Not sure if you have noticed that the pictures on top are looking into Venice from the outside. I would have not gotten those had I not gotten into the wrong boat. 🙂 The right boat would have taken us through the Grand Canal where you get those close up views below (we got those shots by walking from St.Marco church all the way back to where you come in). Sometimes it pays to be an ignorant tourist…

Have a lovely day,
Sofija

P.S. These pictures were the first I took with my Canon Rebel shooting in Raw. Shooting in raw means your pictures tend to be colorless and by editing them you bring out the colors you want. This is also my first time editing eith Adobe Lightroom thanks to my friend Emily, who has been encouraging me to do so. I feel like I have come a long way…but have a long way to go. At least I’m getting closer to the point where I can transform my pictures closer to the look I have in mind. Small steps…

Venice

Mošćenička Draga

Mošćenička Draga is a small town along the Adriatic coast in Croatia. It’s beach is a favorite amongst the locals from the nearby towns. The beach is secluded, traffic free, with several restaurants right by the beach. Perfect for families with young children. Some of the restaurants have little playgrounds to keep them happy.
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We ate right at the beach, soaking in the views. And taking advantage of the free WiFi at the restaurant and posting some pictures. Most restaurants we went to during our stay offered free WiFi which was so helpful for checking e-mails and posting to Instagram. We put our phone on airplane mode and connected to wherever we could. And speaking of eating right by the water overlooking the Adriatic sea, one gets used that really fast. Now I am back in ABQ and wondering what on earth I’m doing sitting in a parking lot (also known as patios)….back to reality.
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moscenicka draga

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What a beautiful little town! There are several little shops and a supermarket, but beyond that there isn’t much there. However it is the perfect spot for a family beach day.
-Sofija
Here are pictures of the same place from 15 years ago, before the digital age…

Mošćenička Draga

The Island of Cres, Croatia

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Croatia has many islands which are easily accessible from the mainland. The island of Cres is about a 2 hour boat ride  from Opatija. We docked at Beli, the oldest village on the island, that is also a wildlife sanctuary. The pebble beach was so inviting with blue water so clean and clear, we decided to right there and not hike up 15 min to the village.

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Rocky sea shores, the smell of salt water, blues skies, the occasional fish (maybe a dolphin?) jumping out of the water. For lunch we had fresh fish, salad, potatoes, and local wine. All that accompanied by our host playing the accordion. Life was pretty near perfection.

Sofija

All pictures where taken by Sofija Burton with the iPad or Cannon Rebel. Except for the bird pictures, those were taken by Esther Burton. The excursion we took is called Fish Picnic, a really fun experience.

The Island of Cres, Croatia

Finn’s First Trip to Europe

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My little man turns 16 today, hard to believe! I went through some old pictures and thought I could share some more pictures from our epic Europe trip back in 2000. Way back when we only had one child. We schlepped the poor kid all over Europe; he was barely 2. We went to Germany (Frankfurt, Duesseldorf, Bavaria, and the Black Forest), Holland, and Croatia. Needles to say  he is not always happy on the pictures.

Here he is with us near Nuernberg. We were staying with my friend Chrissy’s family and had just climbed up some little peak. Love the hat David is wearing.

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In the next picture we are in Croatia enjoying some ice cream right by the Adriatic Sea. Good times. You can find more Croatia pictures here and here.

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The next one is pretty self explanatory…Silly Americans!! We were in Holland for my friend from high-school’s wedding.

Burtons in a shoe

The next one is one of my favorites, Finn and his new friend. We were somewhere near Duesseldorf.

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Next some pictures with my family. Here is my beautiful sister. These two were quite the pair. My sister took him shopping and Finn loved tagging along with her and her friends.

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And my mom. He got the special treatment from Oma which involved lots of trips to the park, ice cream, and a brand new tricycle.

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I get nostalgic every time I look at these.

These were the last pictures we took on a non digital Canon camera, but we had them digitalized right away.

Have a great day,

Sofija

If you like travel posts, here are two from a more recent trip two years ago: an old castle and our visit to the Playmobil Park.

 

 

Finn’s First Trip to Europe

Croatia Continued

Here are is my Croatia 2000 trip part 2. You can find part 1 here.

First a few pictures taken at my mom’s house with views of the Adriatic sea…

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From my mom’s balcony we can see all the way to the nearby port town of Rijeka.027_23A 007_3A 037_33A

Next up are pictures from our visit to a nearby town Mošćenička Draga, the best kept secret in Croatia. A little town south of Opatja. The drive there alone is beautiful, winding close to the shore and through some hills. The town is small, has a beautiful pebble beach, and here comes the best, restaurants right by the water. Below we are eating ice cream at the beach. If I didn’t have free lodging at my mom’s I would probably stay here.

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023_20A 024_21AIt was so relaxing and beautiful. I suggest going there in May as we did; I imagine this place fills up quick during high season.

This concludes my posts on Croatia.

This was probably the last trip I took pictures on film with our Cannon Rebel camera.

-Sofija

Croatia Continued

Opatja, Croatia

018_14AThere is a place in Europe that is so beautiful yet hardly known. Growing up I spend many summers there, because my family leaves nearby. Opatja is a small town on the Adriatic coast. It has changed hands frequently in the past. It has been part of Italy, former Yugoslavia, and now it is part of Croatia. Because of its history it has an Italian look and feel to it. That is what gives its flair. These pictures were taken in 2000, when I took my husband and then 2 year old son on their first trip to Europe. I dug these pictures out of my closet today and I am reliving the memory of this special trip.

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Opatja sits right on the Adriatic sea and has pebbled beaches and pedestrian walk ways all along the shore. I have fond memories of walking, walking, and walking (it’s a European thing), for miles, passing hotels, restaurants, and even an open air movie theatre. Here is the beach more known to the locals.

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I love walking though these narrow streets that only aunt size cars can navigate. Looking at these old houses, with crumbling facades, and old doors.
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After all that bragging about walking, here we are in a water taxi (a first for me). Taking in the scenery a little faster. Behind my husband is the center of Opatja, with the big hotels, where most of the tourists hang out.
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Gosh, I am fond of these two. 019_15A

A local church in town.

034_30AA local woman selling hand made lace, something Croatians are known for. Traditionally women wear black for one year when they mourn the death of a parent or spouse. I don’t remember my grandma ever wearing anything but black.
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Here is the center where local vendors sell merchandise, or local artist draw tourists. Everything is within walking distance from here: Shops, restaurants (do try the local filled pastry called Burek), coffee shops, galleries, parks, etc.
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What do you think? Will you add Croatia to your itinerary on your next trip to Europe? I highly recommend it. People are very friendly, and they try to speak your language more than in Italy or France.

Do let me know when you are going, I will have a shopping list for you.

-Sofija

Opatja, Croatia